Bali adventure as written by Dick

We flew into Bali from Perth on Virgin Australia. Good service. We got the Hindu meal we had ordered at booking. Tomorrow afternoon we fly Garuda airline to Singapore after a week's stay in Bali.

Longish taxi ride (about an hour) from the airport to our Starling Villa in a town named Sanur along the south coast of the island of Bali. The beach is about a kilometer away and faces due east with a view of Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida islands and taller Lombok island in the distance. Lombok's Mt. Rinjani (12,224 ft) is an active volcano that had a violent eruption in 1258 AD and may have triggered the Little Ice Age. 

Settled into our modest but nice villa then walked over to the Oasis restaurant where we enjoyed nice vegetable curry and vietnamese fried rice.

We had cashed in most of our Australian $ for Indonesian rupiahs before leaving Perth but the taxi had eaten most of that so we robbed an ATM next door to the Hardy's supermarket/department store where we also scored some beer for Sharon and some cauliflower, a bag of black rice and a nice slice of Ahi tuna. Dick would just have to swill the 2 liter bottle of port we smuggled out of Perth which actually did last the week with some beer supplements.

Each day started with a nice breakfast in a pavilion at Starling Villa. They provided whole grain bread, fruit and coffee/tea. Dick supplied olive oil and pasta sauce for the toast and several days some muesli and yogurt from Hardy's.

Next day we lunched at the Cafe Batu Jimbar. Tasty vegetable and fish curries. Then off to the beach via Jl. Pantai Karang road past the German consulate to Jalan Segara Ayu. Dick tried to swim but the tide was out and the water was shallow for maybe 200m out to a reef beyond an artificial island with pavilions.

On the way back to Starling Villas we engaged a small-time tour operator for the following day to visit several sites. A full day tour for 500,000 rupiah (it was a bit difficult getting use to money in the tens of thousands). Next day the tour operator and his 'brother' showed up bright and early to pick us up. Dick was a bit late due to having his watch and clocks a half hour off. After about a 40 minute drive we turned into a road and parked by a disused temple adjoining the Barong & Kris Dance theater of Tegal Tamu-Batubulan-Gianyar. The Barong dance ceremony would not start for another 40 minutes. We walked around the temple and watched a cat hunting. We got a false indication that we would need to remove shoes and we did as we entered the covered dance theater, taking upper seats with none in front of us. As other customers filed in we noticed that they did not remove shoes not even Balinese people but it felt good to be in stocking feet under the shade of the high roof.

The band assembled and began tuning up while tourists got up close with their cameras. Then they played some Gamelan tunes with drums and a large brass gong that was used sparingly for occasional emphasis. After a half dozen numbers the Barong (two actors covered with bright gold cloth) appeared at the dancer threshold clacking his teeth and making threat displays with much Balinese foot maneuvering. Later the nagda evil one appeared and there was drama as well as more drama when people were turned into witches (signified by them wearing gloves with extra long curved fingers). Very nice entertainment.

Back on the road we wound up the slope toward Mt. Batur. We stopped at a rice farm where, after paying admission, we hiked down descending maybe 100' where Sharon parked Dick in a shady spot and continued a down a further 200' to a bridge crossing the stream at bottom where she paid the bridge troll another toll though modest.

More driving brought us to a large water temple complex that had nice water flowing out with pools that we could bathe in. We rented golden sashes and walked among the stone temples. Like most buildings in Bali these were carved from blocks of black lava rock like that seen in Hawaii. Black and granular from where the lava had bubbled along and then froze as stone. Made the mistake of walking back a different path to make a clockwise circuit but that was the gauntlet of shops just like modern airports. In Mallorca in 2011 we met an airport architect. I think he had started specializing in the sinuous path they make you walk past all the duty free and trinket shops. There are many factories that make lava carvings. Appear to just grind it up then form it to a mold or somehow with a binder.

More driving on narrow roads winding between rice paddies then through jungle until we were driving along the high ramparts of Lake Batur. Beautiful lake. There had been a large temple down by the lake until a volcanic eruption in 1926 wiped it out so they had to rebuild up on the rim. We had read that up close the lake was polluted and the shore trashy so we just lunched at the restaurant our guide driver recommended.  From the restaurant we could take pictures of Lake Batur and Mt. Batur a bit further off. Lake Batur is like Oregon's Crater Lake but the caldera is not an island in the lake but off to one side. It has evidence of recent lava flows along one side and no snow (Crater Lake had had 54' of snow when we saw it in 2011). Dick needed an ATM and Made, our driver pulled into one along the rim road. Dick screwed up by using his bank ATM pin on Sharon's credit card so she later got into a panic about fraud attempts on her card from the cc company as they threatened to close the account.

Next day was swim call again and we finally got the tide right and went right at the beach end of the German consulate road -- so south along the coast.  Not so weed choked. More sand bottom. And Dick had purchased a pair of swim goggles so could see the fish better. The natives were renting jet boats to young white men. None came close but a caution nonetheless. Walked further south and felt the tropical sun burning while walking straight into it so swam all the way back after swimming out to a marker buoy. A good hour of swimming. On the way back we arranged a half day tour for Thursday. Grilled and ate our tuna with black rice that night.

On Thursday driver Made picked us up early as requested. He drove us up to the Royal temple which was quite nice and only cost $2.00 U.S. to get in. Nice stone temples and a path behind that led through a forest where most of the trees were labeled. Fine growth of large bamboo with a squirrel chattering away.

Back in our van up to the Monkey Forest. We seemed to be about the only visitors there. A lady guide appeared and introduced us to the macaque monkeys. She had a bamboo cane to ward off any monkey that might attack us. They are known to try and take your backpacks if they think there is any food in it. Her English was very good. The monkeys live about 30 years and the elders are larger and given respect by their youngers. Many were grooming each other and like many apes would pop the insects they found into their mouths. More protein. Several were pregnant and some others were nursing infants. We requested to walk through a jungle trail that led through the trees to a nearby village. There were many mosquitos and we got bit by the tiny things. The guide said there was no malaria there. The jungle was not too dense (wouldn't need a machete) and there were several monkeys about. The younger male monkeys in the temple were often fighting (mostly gently) and chattering at each other. We walked back with the guide. There were many small wooden shops to tempt the tourists who had stayed away. All shops were protected by heavy chicken wire and the guide was careful to close her shop when she stepped out. Clever monkeys can be a pest. Sharon bought a wood carving she liked and we were on our way back to Sanur.

We had a large fish feast for two at El Comedor restaurant which was good, Don't know where they got the Spanish name. Each of us got a starter then two each barramundi, snapper, tuna, spiny lobster, squid, crab, several large prawns, sliced bell peppers, ... and desserts. Not very expensive. 500,000 rupiah = $36.

Next day after breakfast Made picked us up in his van and drove us out to the airport. There were a few extra police about after the Jakarta bombing but the airport was relaxed. It's Bali.

From the airplane we got good views of Mt. Agung (9944') and Mt Batur (5633'). Along the way were many small to medium size islands in the lesser Sunda group.
http://eoimages.gsfc.nasa.gov/images/imagerecords/65000/65632/LesserSundaIslands.A2003077.0210.2km.jpg

Our Garuda flight was good. We got our Hindu vegetarian meal as ordered and were happy passengers into Singapore.

Singapore to Joberg as written by Dick

On Friday we flew Garuda Indonesian Airlines from Bali to Singapore on a 737-800. As we approached Singapore through clouds hundreds of ships could be seen steaming along. Most were going either north or south with the occasional one east or west. How do they apply the rules of the road (yield to ships on your right) in such crowded conditions? A very busy seaway. Almost none stop in Singapore but if your ship is transiting to or from Pacific or South China Sea to or from the Indian Ocean to/from Middle East or East Africa then she'll pass by Singapore. A very strategic choke point on world commerce. Emphasizes the importance of maintaining the Law of the Sea treaty which USA has not signed but is trying to enforce

Landed at Changi airport which has several long runways. As we taxied to our jetway I could see a steady line of airliners coming behind us. A very busy airport. Much of the traffic is with Singapore Airlines. We will be flying Singapore girl to Johannesburg, South Africa on Tuesday at 01:30. Singapore Airlines grew by exchanging landing rights with other countries because there are many airlines that want to land here and must provide reciprocity. 

Our shuttle driver was an enthusiastic fan of Singapore. Telling us of the sights near our hotel and what a wonderful place it is. An upcoming motorcycle show. He advised that the city is quite safe even at night, though not crime free.

At the ParkRoyal hotel we discovered that we needed some supplies and the concierge told us to go to Bugis Center, two long blocks along Beach Road, turn right and walk another two long blocks. I bought a bottle of red wine and Sharon picked up some beer. We scoped out all the restaurants in the huge basement. I admired some vegan (no cheese) pizzas and we saw many Chinese and Japanese restaurants.

Next day we decided on Indian food and hiked south on Beach Road to Jin Sultan Road and then about a mile to Raj Restaurant. It was hot as usual at 1 degree N. Wx said 89F feels like 99 and it was about right. The air conditioner wasn't doing much so it was hot and humid but we tolerate that pretty well and enjoyed the heat in S. India in '08. Sharon had a Mysore dosa and I enjoyed a tomato uttapam which is a pancake of lentil and rice flour with veggies bake in. Very good. The staff was East Indian except for the ancient Chinese water filler who wandered round refilling glasses which we kept sipping on. All the customers except one young Chinese couple appeared to be local Singaporean Indians. A good sign in an ethnic restaurant is that it draws local customers of that ethnicity. 

Then it started raining hard outside so we slowed our eating to let it ease off. Then the rain intensified further. At last the rain diminished somewhat after we had been there more than an hour so I made the sign of the bill and paid the bill. Only had a few Singapore dollars that we had exchanged in Bali before takeoff. The rain had not really stopped and had not made it any cooler.

We were seeking some shelter and we had been scoping out the large department store across the street from the restaurant so we quickly jaywalked to Mustafa Center. Four floors of hard goods and all kinds of fruit, produce and groceries. If they don't have it you don't need it. Toilets, refrigerators, ... except alcohol since it is Muslim owned. Bought some very nice big, sweet, juicy tangerines and some bananas.

By the time we finished shopping and looking the rain had pretty well stopped and we veered off into the Arab quarter. Many restaurants of all kinds and a big golden mosque. Then back on Beach Road to ParkRoyal.

A bit later we hiked along Beach Road to the Golden Mile. A multistory building filled mostly with small restaurants (hawkers) and bought some beer.

Next day we decided to hike over to Raffles Hotel and Chinatown. Raffles is famous for the drink called the Singapore Sling and was famous when I sat out front in 1968 and downed a few gin and tonics under old ceiling fans. Then I had come on USS Coral Sea. It appeared that they no longer serve out front but rather at their long bar which we did not visit.

Up to Bridge Road then across the 1929 Elgin Bridge spanning the Singapore River and further south to Chinatown where large decorations spanned the road for Lunar New Year. As we discovered in 2013 this occasions the largest human migration on the planet but I think most Singaporeans stay here to celebrate. We merged into the gyre of people on the narrow streets with small or large shops on all sides. All manner of food items, toys and gadgets for sale. It was hot and humid and we eventually ducked into the shade of a seafood restaurant for a beer and some spicy ginger tea. A very loud expat Texan with a local wife detracted from our relaxation. I had been admiring a roman style white tunic trimmed in red and blue and green across the while sipping tea so walked across the street and bought it for Sharon. We walked some more streets then hiked back past St. Andrews cathedral and the old Supreme Court and War Memorial to Beach Road.

Suddenly a downpour of rain started to soak us so we ducked under a structure to wait it out. More rain and then thunder. Noticed that all the roofs were well equipped with lightning rods.  

The ParkRoyal hotel has one of the best breakfast buffet I have ever enjoyed. Better even than the MS Zaandam which was better than SS Star Clipper and the New Century Hotel in Bangkok. I had pigged out so much that morning that I skipped lunch and dinner. Smoked peppered salmon for my omega-3s. Whole wheat toast. Olive oil and sambal hot red sauce. All kinds of fruit. Limeade, orange juice. Baked beans. Sliced beetroot. Potato wedges. Roasted veggies like carrots, bok choy, cabbage in their own juice. And everything tasted wonderful. No misses.

ParkRoyal also has an olympic size swimming pool and weight room. I used both every day of our stay.

Next day we again went south on Beach Street then up to Bridge Street. Just after crossing the bridge we walked down onto the quay. The walkway there is lined on both sides with all kinds of restaurants. A prevalence of seafood but also turkish, Chinese, Indian, Thai. Large tanks with gigantic crabs. Bodies the size of my head. Large clams.

Wait a minute. Italian. L'Operetta. Looked at menu outside. Ooh. Pizza without cheese like real Italian pizza. We went inside for air conditioning. Very nice interior. Paintings of musicians on the west wall. Bob Dylan, David. Sharon had linguine with crabmeat and I had pizza napoletana: heavy tomato sauce, anchovies, black olives, oregano and basil on a thin crust. I had avoided pigging out at breakfast.

After lunch we hiked further south along the quay to a photogenic temple where Sharon snapped some photos. We wandered around but soon found ourselves at Marina Bay. Sharon got photos of some merlion statues spouting water. Then a hike back to hotel.

Singapore is a small island. Not much here. Hotels, giant office buildings (building many more) and restaurants. Luxurious ones, smaller ones and many hawker stalls with little to no roofing. The regular restaurants are not cheap though the hawker stalls are rather so. If you have money you won't starve in Singapore.

Ever since Sydney we have had to beware that the locals drive on the wrong side of the road. Stepping into a crosswalk you must look most carefully to your right and at corners look out that left turners will cut the corner tight and may not have to stop. Look right.

Singapore is an expensive city. Saw no poor. No homeless. No grafitti. They will whip you for that. Playboy magazine used to be banned but we encountered no questions about importing porn. 
A city of beautiful women. The fashion is A skirts or dresses above the knee. Being a veteran leg man I appreciate that. Loved the miniskirts in San Francisco 1970-72. I had to wire up accounting machines at the Social Security Office on Grant Street so I was down under the desks amongst a sea of legs. Made it hard to maneuver. Many of the women look just like the Singapore Girl advertisements. Tall, long legs, slender long necks with long Asian hair, often bunned up. Often seemingly aloof.  

Many newly rich Singaporean men showing off their new wealth. Fast cars are common. Ferraris, Maseratis. Pretty useless on such a small island. There are some freeways but rarely saw any speeding. Very efficient police. We felt safe so long as we remembered to look right before crossing. Terrorists will have a tough time here.

A swim and some computer work. Shuttle picked us up at 10PM. Out to Changi airport. Through immigration and a hike out to just outside of our boarding gate. These folks are very security conscious yet we have not yet been through security. Different setup. Security is at each gate. Actually nicer in that it avoids the usual long lines where passengers from all flights queue up.

Into the air on our 777-200ER. See city lights along the coast as we pass over Sumatra. We will chase darkness across the Indian Ocean and land in the dark in S. Africa Surprised that we don't seem to be flying great circle after recrossing the equator. We flew great circle from Santiago to Sydney chasing the sun through the whole flight and I could see icebergs as we dipped far south over the Southern Ocean.

Before we get home we will have crossed the equator 4 times. We got started on this great RTWS when I mentioned to Sharon as we stood beneath the sails on SS Star Clipper coming from Istanbul to Greece that, though I had been to Singapore at 1N, I had was still a pollywog: had not crossed the equator. Guess we're shellbacks now? On MS Zaandam we learnt that nautical tradition said that after rounding the Horn a sailor could put one foot up on the table and after that if he rounded Cape of Good Hope, both feet. We'll be in Cape Town next week and can walk around the Cape of Good Hope so I'll put both feet on the table.

We are still 4 hours out from Joburg. About to cross over Madagascar. Mauritius invisible off to port. Stars are quite bright up here. Might have seen the Southern Cross which we have yet to see but can't ID it since I've yet to see it. Flight is not near full. Debarking should be easier. Clever Sharon booked us a window and an aisle so I could lay down using two seats for 4 hours of blessed sleep. Can't sleep sitting up. I did manage to sleep standing at attention during USMC boot camp and on deck in the tropical sun facing a company of men in blinding white uniforms.

Now 2 hours out of Joburg with a stunning red dawn coming up in SSE from 38,000'. Tried to snap a photo but they have the cabin lights way up for breakfast so got mostly reflection. Then saw a Chinese lady throw the airline blanket over her head and her window. So I tried that but don't think I got much.

Though the sun was nearly up -- bright red clear across the eastern and southern horizon, I could still see one bright star to the ESE that I had noticed each time I peeked out my port side window. Ahh! Venus. Being a norteño I was always used to seeing Venus in the north or NE or NW. A complete surprise but perfectly logical. Venus has been visible for hours as we chased the night across the Indian Ocean.